Abstract

Calendula is used widely in cosmetic formulations that present phenolic compounds in their chemical constitution. The objective of our research was to develop and evaluate the stability of topical formulations containing 5% hydro-ethanolic extract of calendula leaves, including spreadability, and in vitro photo-protective, and antioxidant capacity. To evaluate the stability, we used organoleptic characteristics, pH, and viscosity parameters. Antioxidant capacity was measured by the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) method, and the photo-protective capacity by SPF spectrophotometric measure. All formulations were stable. The calendula extract formulations in gel and cream showed no significant variations in pH, and the cream formulations presented lower viscosity variations than gel formulations. The spreadability of the gel formulations was superior to those in cream. The formulations also presented good antioxidant capacities and an FPS of around 1.75. In accordance with the results, the formulations can be used as antioxidants, but considering the low SPF obtained, calendula cannot be considered as a stand-alone sunscreen, yet may well be tested in future studies towards verifying enhancement of synthetic sunscreens.

Highlights

  • Calendula officinalis L. displays anti-inflammatory and antiseptic effects, and is used for various skin ulcerations and eczema

  • We aimed to develop cosmetic formulations in cream and gel form to incorporate hydroethanolic extract from the leaves of C. officinalis L., and to evaluate the resulting physical and chemical stability, spreadability, along with in vitro photo-protective and antioxidant capacity

  • During storage at different temperature conditions, it was observed that the color, appearance, and odor did not change, and are classified as “1” according to the scale used for organoleptic characteristics for the samples kept at room temperature and under refrigeration

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Summary

Introduction

Calendula officinalis L. displays anti-inflammatory and antiseptic effects, and is used for various skin ulcerations and eczema. Among the secondary metabolites already reported in the literature we find (flavonoids and phenolic acids), saponins, carotenoids, triterpenic alcohols, steroids, terpenoids, and triterpenoids (Butnariu, Coradini, 2012; Agatonovic-Kustrin, Loescher, 2013), which may be related to its antioxidant capacity

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