Abstract

Phyllanthus emblica Linn. (PE) has been used to promote hair growth for decades. In this study, dried PE fruit powder was extracted, tested for biological activities, and loaded into transfersomes for hair follicle targeting. Before lyophilization, PE fruit powder was extracted using 2 solvent systems, water and 30% ethanol. The PE 30% ethanolic extract had higher antioxidant activity and total phenolic content than the PE aqueous extract. However, the cytotoxicity of the PE 30% ethanolic extract was higher than that of PE aqueous extract. As a result, the PE aqueous extract was analyzed using ultra-performance liquid chromatography and found that the major component of the PE aqueous extract was gallic acid. Afterward, the PE aqueous extract was tested for its potential to activate the expression of genes involved in hair growth promotion in human keratinocytes. At a non-toxic concentration (10 µg/mL), this extract promoted various growth factors comparable to 1% minoxidil. PE-loaded transfersomes were prepared to deliver the PE aqueous extract to the hair follicle. The particle size and polydispersity index of PE-loaded transfersomes were 228 nm and 0.25, respectively. After 3 months of storage, the particle size at 4°C and 30°C was 218 nm and 241 nm, respectively, which was comparable to its initial size. However, at 40°C, the particle size dramatically increased (315 nm). The fluorescent agent, rhodamine B, was used to evaluate the potential of transfersomes to target hair follicles. Rhodamine B transfersomes had better penetration and accumulation in hair follicles than rhodamine B solution. To conclude, the PE aqueous extract, mainly composed of gallic acid, can activate hair growth gene expression. The extract can be loaded into hair follicles targeting transfersomes. Thus, PE-loaded transfersomes are a promising delivery system for hair follicle targeting to promote hair growth.

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