Abstract
Human skin is colonized by diverse commensal microbes, making up the skin microbiota (SM), contributing to skin integrity and homeostasis. Many of the beneficial effects aroused by the SM are exerted by microbial metabolites such as short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), including butyric acid. The SCFAs can be used in cosmetic formulations against skin diseases to protect SM by preserving and/or restoring their natural balance. Unpleasant sensorial properties and unfavorable physico-chemical properties of butyrate strongly limit its cosmetic use. In contrast, some butyrate derivatives, including phenylalanine butyramide (C13H18N2O2, FBA), a solid form of butyric acid, are odorless while retaining the pharmacokinetic properties and safety profile of butyric acid. This study assessed the FBA’s permeation across the skin and its soothing and anti-reddening potential to estimate its cosmetic application. The dosage method used to estimate FBA’s levels was validated to be sure of analytical results. The FBA diffusion tests were estimated in vitro using a Franz-type vertical diffusion cell. The soothing action was evaluated in vivo by Colorimeter CL400, measuring the erythema index. The results suggest that the FBA represents an innovative way to exploit the benefits of butyric acid in the cosmetic fields since it cannot reach the bloodstream, is odorless, and has a significative soothing action (decrease the erythema index −15.7% after 30′, and −17.8% after 60′).
Highlights
Introduction published maps and institutional affilThe skin is the most significant interface between the human body and the environment
The results of our study suggested that fields. The phenylalanine butyramide (FBA) was not able to reach the bloodstream so that the cosmetic properties could be attributable to butyric acid
Excluded were pregnant or breastfeeding women, women with cutaneous hyperreactivity or intolerance reactions to cosmetic products/ingredients, topical or systemic treatment with any drug that may interfere with the outcome of the test, women affected by skin diseases, topical use of retinoids in the previous six months at the start of the study or with systemic retinoids in the previous 12 months, and topical use of products based on alpha and beta-hydroxy acids in the 30 days before the start of the study
Summary
FBA is a 1-carbamoyl-2-phenyl-ethyl derivative of butyric acid (Figure 1). Study, potential was evaluated vitroacid studies validated silicon stud its lipophilic potential was evaluated by in vitro studies validated by silicon studies
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