Abstract

BackgroundCocoa pod is an outer part of cocoa fruits being discarded during cocoa bean processing. Authors found out that data on its usage in literature as cosmetic materials was not recorded in vast. In this study, cocoa pod extract was investigated for its potential as a cosmetic ingredient.MethodsCocoa pod extract (CPE) composition was accomplished using UHPLC. The antioxidant capacity were measured using scavenging assay of 1,2-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), β-carotene bleaching assay (BCB) and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP). Inhibiting effect on skin degradation enzymes was carried out using elastase and collagenase assays. The skin whitening effect of CPE was determined based on mushroom tyrosinase assay and sun screening effect (UV-absorbance at 200-400 nm wavelength).ResultsLC-MS/MS data showed the presence of carboxylic acid, phenolic acid, fatty acid, flavonoids (flavonol and flavones), stilbenoids and terpenoids in CPE. Results for antioxidant activity exhibited that CPE possessed good antioxidant activity, based on the mechanism of the assays compared with ascorbic acid (AA) and standardized pine bark extract (PBE); DPPH: AA > CPE > PBE; FRAP: PBE > CPE > AA; and BCB: BHT > CPE > PBE. Cocoa pod extract showed better action against elastase and collagenase enzymes in comparison with PBE and AA. Higher inhibition towards tyrosinase enzyme was exhibited by CPE than kojic acid and AA, although lower than PBE. CPE induced proliferation when tested on human fibroblast cell at low concentration. CPE also exhibited a potential as UVB sunscreen despite its low performance as a UVA sunscreen agent.ConclusionsTherefore, the CPE has high potential as a cosmetic ingredient due to its anti-wrinkle, skin whitening, and sunscreen effects.

Highlights

  • Cocoa pod is an outer part of cocoa fruits being discarded during cocoa bean processing

  • We considered the compound as its derivatives, if the product ion spectrum did not hit any of the product ion m/z in the search but hit only the first and one or more of the product ion m/z in the spectrum

  • Polyphenolic compounds in Cocoa pod extract (CPE) included phenolic acids, flavonols and flavones, which were detected in pine bark extract (PBE)

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Summary

Introduction

Cocoa pod is an outer part of cocoa fruits being discarded during cocoa bean processing. Skin wrinkles form as a result of natural aging process and the presence of excessive amount of reactive oxygen species (ROS) [1]. With overexposure to sunlight (UVA and UVB), the presence of excessive ROS and smoking habit [4], the enzymes are produced at a faster rate resulting in faster degradation of elastin and collagen which are the main foundation of extracellular matrix (ECM) of the dermis [5]. Plant extracts can suspend the skin aging and pigmentation process [7] by encountering the ROS [3] and protecting the skin from UV [1]. The extracts protect the skin in various ways, including scavenging the ROS, reducing the ROS reactivity, inhibiting the oxidation, absorbing the UV light, suppressing the enzymes, reducing the risk of wrinkle formation and protecting the skin from aging. Polyphenols have a phenol ring with at least one hydroxyl substituent that enables scavenging of ROS, reducing metal ions, modulating protein phosphorylation (related to inhibition of enzymes activity), and inhibiting lipid peroxidation [8]

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