Peptides in cosmeceuticals

Abstract

Skin aging is part of human global aging which becomes evident along the years following different ways in organs, tissues and cells. Aging of the internal organs is masked whilst the skin is the first organ displaying visible signs of passing time. As life expectancy is growing everywhere at a fast pace, many people are on a quest for the fountain of youth, and age usually factors into the perception of beauty.Peptides feature molecules constituted by chains of two or more amino acids connected by peptide bonds. There are a lot of physiological peptides present in the organism, most of them having a signalling function. Due to the potent activity of these physiological peptides, it was tempting using their model and mimic them in order to get focused therapeutic activities. This trend was initiated in the beginning of twenty-first century, and many peptides were synthesized and are used as active ingredients in cosmeceuticals. Most of these peptides are oriented towards the treatment of skin aging, mainly for the attenuation of fine lines and wrinkles. Others are positioned in the management of hyperpigmentation or may also be antimicrobial peptides. Finally, peptides also exist which can improve hair growth. Formulation of peptides in cosmeceuticals is relatively easy, however attention must be paid to their transcutaneous penetration. For small-sized peptides there is usually no problem, whilst for bigger-sized peptides various artefacts like encapsulation or branching with fatty acids must be used. Another concern about peptides is their eventual toxicity, and there is currently insufficient responses from the industry about this matter.The majority of research studies are focused on the development of anti-aging actives, and there is still room for research to be carried out to evaluate other functions of these actives and create new actives for other indications. Understanding of cellular mechanisms, gene regulation, receptor activity and metabolic interactions increases constantly and many more peptides will probably appear and have applications in cosmeceuticals.