Pempek Palembang: history, food making tradition, and ethnic identity

Abstract

Pempek is one of the renowned dishes from Palembang, famous throughout Indonesia, particularly in South Sumatra. Crafted from a blend of ground fish meat, tapioca, water, and seasonings, this dish is typically served with Cuko sauce. The resulting flavor is a harmonious combination of saltiness, spiciness, and umami, thereby making Pempek an exquisite culinary creation. Pempek holds a significant place in the cultural, historical, geographical, and lifestyle identity of Palembang and has also endured through time. Therefore, this study explained the origin and development of the traditional food, Pempek, and its influence on society, ultimately shaping it as a Palembang identity. A historical approach was utilized in the study, which involved several stages, such as heuristics, source criticism, interpretation, and narration (historiography). The result showed that the production of Pempek depended on the availability of raw materials in the South Sumatra region, such as fish, sago, and brown sugar. Its history was traced back to the Srivijaya Inscription (682 AD) and the Sultanate of Palembang, a cultural hub that introduced various foods, including Pempek. The Nginum culture supported the development of Pempek distinct flavor and aroma, making it a daily staple. In the early twentieth century, Pempek started to be produced on a limited basis for sale, eventually becoming a widespread industry. The archives from various government and private sector events showed that Pempek has become increasingly famous in Indonesia and around the world over the last 20 years. This growth can be attributed to the fact that Pempek is a significant souvenir for migrants, a symbol of Palembang City, and has a positive impact on the local economy. Therefore, future studies need to explore developments in the production of Pempek and its impact on the economy of South Sumatra.