Parthian dyed fabric discovered from Kuh-e Khwaja archaeological site, Sistan, Iran: A multi-analytical study for dye identification

Abstract

The purpose of this investigation is to examine a dyed fabric recovered from Kuh-e Khwaja, an archaeological site in the Sistan area of southeastern Iran. This fabric, dating back to the Parthian period (3rd century BCE-3rd century CE), is a rarity due to its red and blue dyed fibers. A combination of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS), micro-spectrophotometry, and scanning electron microscopy equipped with an energy-dispersive X-ray spectrometer (SEM-EDS) were employed to explore the fibers morphology, dyes and mordants. The results reveal that wool fibers were used in the production of the dyed yarns. Using micro-spectrophotometry, single fibers could be studied and preliminary dye identification was possible through transmittance spectra recording in microscopic dimensions. The spectra recorded indicate that indigo and madder were used to dye blue and red fibers respectively. LC-MS analysis corroborated these findings, demonstrating the presence of alizarin, purpurin, and munjistin in red dyes and indigotin in blue dyes. Evaluation of the fibers with SEM-EDS supports the possibility of using non-mordanted fiber in blue yarn and chalk as a pre-treatment in dyeing red fibers. These results showcase the use of madder and indigo dyeing during the Parthian era in this important region of southeastern Iran, which has been subject to limited exploration concerning its textile history. These findings contribute to a more comprehensive understanding of the history of dyeing in Iran.