Pants Alteration By Graphic Somatometry Techniques

Abstract

The goal of this research was to develop a method of pants pattern alteration that incorporates body measurements, graphing techniques, and body angle measurements. This experimental method was tested against a traditional method that uses only body measurements. Profile and back view somatographs (gridded silhouette photographs) were taken of 36 female vol unteers. Five models were chosen for analysis to represent five figure variations: round hip, pear‐shaped hip, average hip, weight in front, and weight in back. Two muslins were constructed for each variation: one cut from a pattern altered by the experimental method and the other from a pattern altered by traditional method. Two rating scales were developed to analyze fit. An evaluative scale measured the quality of fit, and a diagnostic scale specified the direction of the fitting problem. The experimental method was preferred for front waist placement, front waist dart size, back crotch curve, and horizontal grain. For all other criteria, the fit produced by the two methods was rated as equal.