Abstract

By the early 1950s, farms and industries in Southern Rhodesia were reportedly experiencing increasing cases of malnutrition and poor physical health among African workers. Yet, notwithstanding these alarm calls, the government as well as most mining and commercial crop sectors of tobacco, maize, and cotton, were reluctant to acknowledge the crisis – let alone take action. The colonial state and employers alike avoided the additional expense of providing what was then understood as a decent diet for labourers, or wages that could ensure one. Thus, despite increasingly joining the waged labour force, Africans could not rely on employers – instead turning to the support net of African families. Relying on primary archival data, this paper uses the development of small grains – sorghum, millet and rapoko – to re-examine the story of African food and nutrition over three decades during the Federation and UDI years from the 1950s to 1970s. In telling this story, we show the contested social, economic and political impact that diets had on black and white society. We argue that African consumption of ‘traditional’ small grains was central to the social and economic survival of a workforce in crisis. We show how African ways of eating triumphed over the state’s notions of so-called ‘African traditional’ food and their economic ambitions behind controlling their diet.

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