Abstract
Green tea (Camellia sinensis L.) is known to have ability to protect skin against free radicals. This is supported by polyphenol compound catechin. This research aims to determine the optimum Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) value of Tween 60 and Span 80 compositions on the optimum cream formula of ethanol extract of green tea leaves. Tea leaves are extracted by macerating using 70% ethanol. Catechin in extract is known from Thin Layer Chromatography (TLC) test with silica gel 60 F254 as stationary phase and ethyl acetate:aquadest:formic acid (18:1:1 v/v) as mobile phase. Antioxidant activity is determined by 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picryhydrazyl (DPPH) method and value of Inhibition Concentration 50% (IC50) is then calculated. Formula optimization using Design Expert® version 7.1.5 (DX 7) software, Simplex Lattice Design (SLD) method with two components Tween 60 and Span 80. Cream is characterized according to physical properties organoleptic, homogeneity, viscosity, pH, spreadability, adhesiveness, and cream type. The optimum formula obtained is then tested for physical stability for 4 weeks at room temperature (28±2°C) and data are statistically analyzed using one-way ANOVA. The extract contains catechin proved with Retention factor (Rf) value 0.8 and has antioxidant activity with IC50 value 56.35 ppm. 6.4% Tween 60 and 3.6% Span 80 result an optimum HLB value 11.1. It has viscosity 2897.50±35.94 mPa.s, spreadability 18.44±0.06 cm2, adhesiveness 0.85±0.05 seconds, and pH 4.530±0.002. Statistical test shows that the cream is significantly altered at pH, but does not significantly change in viscosity, spreadability, and adhesiveness after being stored for 4 weeks.
Highlights
Cosmetics are a necessity that absolutely need to be fulfilled nowadays
The results of the determination showed that the plants tested were tea (Camellia sinensis L.) based on testing in the Dept
Qualitative test extracts are conducted by KLT by looking at the value of Retention factor (Rf)
Summary
Cosmetics are a necessity that absolutely need to be fulfilled nowadays. Utilization of natural or herbal ingredients as active ingredients in cosmetic preparations is getting more common. The possibility of negative reactions on skin due to mixtures of chemical compounds causes consumers to switch to herbal cosmetic products (Singh et al, 2011). One of the plants widely known by the public is tea. Various studies show that green tea is beneficial for preventing cancer, osteoporosis, cardiovascular, Parkinson's disease and Alzheimer’s, as well as lowering blood pressure. For beauty care, green tea is used to slim down, prevent early aging, eliminate bad breath and get rid of acne (Soraya, 2007)
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