Optimal psychological states in advanced climbers: Antecedents, characteristics, and consequences of flow and clutch states

Abstract

ObjectivesOptimal psychological states (e.g., flow) are particularly valued by rock-climbers. The integrated model of flow and clutch states has shown promise for better understanding optimal states in sport psychology. The current study examined the antecedents, characteristics, and consequences of these states among rock-climbers in relation to the integrated model. A secondary objective was to compare optimal psychological states across outdoor and indoor rock-climbing contexts. DesignA sequential-explanatory (QUAN → qual) design was used. MethodNine male and four female advanced rock-climbers completed a flow questionnaire immediately after every climbing route during two separate climbing sessions (i.e., one outdoor, one indoor). Intensity sampling was used to identify participants for 13 semi-structured interviews, based on high- or low-score thresholds established by the research team. Data were analysed using reflexive thematic analysis and abductive reasoning. ResultsParticipants reported an optimal state during at least one of their climbs in 72% of their outdoor sessions and 40% of their indoor sessions. A focus on exploring routes was reported as preceding flow states, which were characterised by enjoyment of effortless movement for its own sake. In contrast, specific goals and additional risk-based pressure were reported as preceding clutch states, which were described as exerting maximal effort. After experiencing flow, participants reported additional vitality. Following clutch states, participants reported feeling accomplished, despite reporting exhaustion. ConclusionsThis study suggests potential antecedents, characteristics, and consequences of two distinct, yet overlapping, optimal states that appear to occur during both indoor and outdoor climbing. Findings extend understanding of the integrated flow and clutch state model beyond traditional sport and exercise contexts and demonstrates the utility of the model for adventure recreation. Recommendations for future research include testing, refining, and expanding the integrated model of flow and clutch.