Abstract
The prediction of ocean waves is a highly challenging task in coastal and water engineering in general due to their very high randomness. In the present case study, an analysis of wind, sea flow features, and wave height in the southern coasts of the Caspian Sea, especially in the off-coast sea waters of Mazandaran Province in Northern Iran, was performed. Satellite altimetry-based significant wave heights associated with the period of observation in 2016 were validated based on those measured at a buoy station in the same year. The comparative analysis between them showed that satellite-based wave heights are highly correlated to buoy data, as testified by a high coefficient of correlation r (0.87), low Bias (0.063 m), and root-mean-squared error (0.071 m). It was possible to assess that the dominant wave direction in the study area was northwest. Considering the main factors affecting wind-induced waves, the atmospheric framework in the examined sea region with high pressure was identified as the main factor to be taken into account in the formation of waves. The outcomes of the present research provide an interesting methodological tool for obtaining and processing accurate wave height estimations in such an intricate flow playground as the southern coasts of the Caspian Sea.
Highlights
The direct and indirect estimations of the temporal changes in sea wave height are extremely useful for eco-hydraulic, environmental, and sea engineering applications and predictions
Having a total surface extension of about 3.9 × 105 km2 and a volume of 7.8 × 104 km3, the Caspian Sea region is the largest lake in the world, with an average salinity of approxthe Caspian Sea region is the largest lake in the world, with an average salinity of approximately 13
An active low-pressure system was registered in the Caspian Sea area, located in the NW direction in January, which provided a clockwise rotation for the whole year
Summary
The direct and indirect estimations of the temporal changes in sea wave height are extremely useful for eco-hydraulic, environmental, and sea engineering applications and predictions. Barrick’s method and buoy-based data revealed that RMSE varies from 0.20 to 0.70 m, as indicated by the study of Wang and Ichikawa [57] Errors in both buoy- and satellite-based wave height (m) measurements are attributable essentially to issues associated with device and signal processing. The accuracy of indirect wave height (m) estimations is strongly affected by changes in sea flow dynamics within 1 h, and satellite-based significant wave height (m) calculations require at least 20 min of raw signal acquisition. These issues inevitably result in a mismatch between buoy- and satellite-based waves assessments.
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