Abstract
Behaviour-oriented beach evolution models are normally applied in a prognostic fashion, with model parameters and boundary conditions estimated from previous experience, other forecasts or from historic measurements. Here, we use observations of beach profiles to solve a cross-shore beach profile evolution equation in an inverse manner to determine key model parameters, cross-shore sediment diffusion coefficient and a time-varying source function. The data used to demonstrate the method are from Christchurch Bay in Dorset, United Kingdom. It was found that there is a significant contribution from diffusive processes to the morphodynamic variability of the beach profiles and that the development and disappearance of cross-shore coastal features such as upper beach berms and inter- and sub-tidal bars are well captured by the time-varying source function in the governing equation.
Highlights
Morphodynamic predictions of coastal systems are based on two modelling approaches (De Vriend, et al, 1993; De Vriend, 2003)
We present a technique for the determination and recovery of the diffusion coefficient and an unknown source function in an advection-diffusion type governing equation for long-term beach profile evolution in this paper
The diffusion coefficient is derived as a problem of error minimisation and the source function is recovered as the solution of an inverse problem, using measurements of historic cross-shore beach profiles
Summary
Morphodynamic predictions of coastal systems are based on two modelling approaches (De Vriend, et al, 1993; De Vriend, 2003). We present a technique for the determination and recovery of the diffusion coefficient and an unknown source function in an advection-diffusion type governing equation for long-term beach profile evolution in this paper. The diffusion coefficient is derived as a problem of error minimisation and the source function is recovered as the solution of an inverse problem, using measurements of historic cross-shore beach profiles.
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