On Kaolin and Its Substitutes; or, The Management of Whiteness

Abstract

How did European attempts to imitate the beauty of East Asian porcelain generate competitions to find marketable forms of whiteness? This essay describes the adoption of aluminum-rich kaolin clay for the making of “gallantry wares” for courtly elites—and then the process of seeking ever-cheaper substitutes as more and more consumers set their hearts on acquiring their own porcelain trinkets and tableware. It shows how, in the search for cost savings and aided especially by professional chemists, the porcelain industry helped to democratize whiteness and to reinforce its associations with cleanliness, purity, and timeless beauty.