On Jewelry Made in the Contemporary Southwestern (U.S.A.) Style

Abstract

Metalworking by Amerindians of the southwest U.S.A. has a relatively short-history [1-3]. Methods for working several types of metals were introduced in the region comprising primarily New Mexico and Arizona by the Spanish who arrived there about 1540. Although local Indians served as laborers for the Spanish blacksmiths and undoubtedly observed their techniques, the earliest Navajo silver pieces known date to about 1860; their cast iron jewelry dates back perhaps a few decades earlier. Prior to that time they made jewelry exclusively from shells, bone and semi-precious stones. They mined turquoise, a favored stone, locally and traded some of it to other tribes, some located as far away as the Pacific coast and the coast of the Gulf of Mexico. Jewelry-making was a family pursuit, and some families continue the tradition today. Artifacts brought by the Spanish from Europe (some of which bore Moorish characteristics) had initially a strong influence on the Indian metalwork. They copied buttons, belts, iron bits for horses, knives, etc. Some early decorative pieces were made from brass. Beginning around 1880 many objects were made from silver coins of the U.S.A. and silver pesos of Mexico. The latter were used exclusively after the use of the former became illegal. With the installation of railroad lines, the demands of tourists for jewelry of Indian tribes began to be felt. The sale of jewelry to tourists was aided by the establishment of trading posts beginning at about 1890. As a consequence of an expanding growth in production of jewelry, the quality of most pieces being sold eventually was lower, an effect noted as early as the 1920s. Today, in my opinion, there are but a few jewelry makers in the Southwest whose work is of artistic merit.