Offshore wave climate of the Great Barrier Reef

Abstract

The Great Barrier Reef (GBR) is the largest coral reef system on earth, with ecological and scientific importance for the world and economic and iconic value for Australia. However, the characterisation of its offshore wave climate remains challenging because of its remoteness and large dimensions. Here, we present a detailed analysis of the offshore wave climate of the GBR, unveiling the details of both modal conditions and extreme events. We used a calibrated satellite radar altimeter dataset (spanning from 1985 to 2018) to quantify wave climate, assess the influence of climate drivers, and analyse the wave conditions generated by tropical cyclones at three main regions of the GBR (northern, central, and southern). Our results indicate average significant wave heights of 1.6 m, 1.5 m, and 1.7 m for the northern, central, and southern GBR, respectively. The modal wave climate exhibits substantial seasonality, particularly in the northern region with dry season wave heights up to twofold larger than during wet season. The northern and central wave climates show decreasing wave height and wave energy trends over the last 33 yrs, whilst the southern region remains stable. Consistent with prior studies, we found that the wave climate in the southern region is modulated by the El Niño-Southern Oscillation and the southern annular mode, with influence additionally extending to the central region. Analysis of the extreme waves generated by tropical cyclones revealed they generate large, long period waves, frequently above 7 m, resulting in wave power up to 32-fold higher than median conditions.