Abstract
It follows from the review on classical wave models that the asymmetry of crest and trough is the direct cause for wave drift. Based on this, a new model of Lagrangian form is constructed. Relative to the Gerstner model, its improvement is reflected in the horizontal motion which includes an explicit drift term. On the one hand, the depth-decay factor for the new drift accords well with that of the particle’s horizontal velocity. It is more rational than that of Stokes drift. On the other hand, the new formula needs no Taylor expansion as for Stokes drift and is applicable for the waves with big slopes. In addition, the new formula can also yield a more rational magnitude for the surface drift than that of Stokes.
Highlights
The drift caused by water wave was firstly studied by George Gabriel Stokes in 1847
It follows from the review on classical wave models that the asymmetry of crest and trough is the direct cause for wave drift
Is the wave drift caused by the asymmetry of crest and trough? If the answer is true, the nonlinear Stokes wave with finite amplitude and the Gerstner wave with large amplitude exists wave drift
Summary
The drift caused by water wave was firstly studied by George Gabriel Stokes in 1847. The doubt “Do we observe Gerstner waves in wave tank experiments?” in [1] can be well answered This question stimulates us to reconsider the wave mechanism. As for the study which takes Stokes drift as a special topic [11]-[17], most of them are about the applications of existing formula which was written down by Stokes in 1847. To make remodeling it needs a new approach. The default form of it is the so-called “gravity wave” on the ocean surface
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