Objective Evaluation of Seam Pucker Using Artificial Intelligence Part III: Using the Objective Evaluation Method to Analyze the Effects of Sewing Parameters on Seam Pucker

Abstract

The new objective evaluation method of seam pucker reported in Parts I and II of this study is used to analyze the effects of sewing parameters on seam pucker with five shape parameters in this part of the series. The parameters of sewing thread tension and stitch length are varied. To measure needle and bobbin thread tensions, frames are modified with dial tension gauges, linear guides, and weights. Four lightweight synthetic fabrics are used for seam pucker experiments. The needle and a bobbin. threads are polyester. These experiments show that sewing thread tension affects the wave amplitudes on the puckered surface as well as the objective AATCC seam pucker grade, but has no effect on the wave frequency characterized by the number of wave generating points and the wavelengths. Stitch length influences wave frequency on the seam line as well as AATCC grade, but without influencing wave amplitudes. The effects of stitch length on the shape parameters are quite different from those of sewing thread tension. With the expanded information provided by the five shape parameters of seam pucker, the effects of sewing parameters on seam pucker can be examined in more detail. The new evaluation method could be instrumental in better understanding the cause of seam pucker and its eventual elimination.