Abstract
The MPS method, generally called the Particle Method, which is the Lagrangian concept to solve the Navier-Stokes equation, is applied to the plunging breaker on a uniform slope. The MPS method has a superiority in the accurate calculation of the complicated behavior of water surface. In other word, it is less affected by the numerical diffusion due to the convection term than the Eulerian methods. The characteristics of splash due to the collision of a wave with a slope and the transition of the mode from the breaking to the runup via the bore are investigated based on the detailed numerical information of the velocity field on a slope.By introducing the additional drag term, which represents the existence of the permeable layer, into the governing equation, the wave breaking and runup on the permeable slope is also simulated. The effect of the permeability of the slope on the wave runup process is also discussed.
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