Abstract
ABSTRACT Dubarbier, B., Castelle, B, Marieu, V and Ruessink, B.G., 2013. Numerical modelling of pronounced sloping beach profile evolution: comparaison with the large-scale BARDEX II experiment .In: Conley, D.C., Masselink, G., Russell, P.E. and O'Hare, T.J. (eds.) Barriers and sandbars are ubiquitous natural coastal features, whose variability often determines nearshore morphological evolution. Wave-dominated beach profile evolution results from the interaction between wave non-linearities, wave-breaking induced turbulence, undertow, infragravity motions and swash processes. To explore each of these contributions to the sediment transport, the full-scale Barrier Dynamics Experiment (BARDEX II), performed in the Delta Flume in June 2012, provides a new dataset for the rigorous testing of the performance of beach profile evolution models in the case of steep beaches. This new experiment will improve our knowledge on (1) swash zone processes, including infiltration and exfiltration of water into the sand an...
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