Abstract

Wave breaking is a highly unsteady, non-linear and extremely turbulent phenomenon. During the wave breaking process, the energy of the wave system is focused close to the crest of the wave and a spatial spread of wave energy occurs. Thus, the description of such a physical phenomenon is highly complex and it requires a deep insight into the breaking wave process. The accurate assessment of breaking wave kinematics is essential for an accurate prediction of hydrodynamic loads on structures. Besides, the understanding of the transformation of waves propagating over an artificial or natural reef is important concerning the coastal processes. The numerical model used in this study is a two-phase model, which solves the flow problem for air and water simultaneously. The Navier-Stokes equations are solved on uniform Cartesian grids in two dimensions. The complex free surface is captured by the level set method. A staggered grid is used for the computation with the velocities defined at the cell edges and the pressure at the cell centres. This avoids unphysical pressure oscillations that can occur due to the coupling of pressure and velocity in the incompressible Navier-Stokes equations. The Ghost Cell Immersed Boundary Method is employed to handle the boundary conditions for complex boundaries. Turbulence modelling is carried out using the k-ω model. Discretization of the convective terms is performed using the 5th order Weighted Essentially Non-Oscillatory (WENO) scheme. In this study, a two-dimensional numerical wave tank is used to simulate waves propagating over steep slopes and wave dissipation. The main objective of the present study is to investigate the wave breaking process over a submerged reef. This is accomplished by examining the wave profile during wave breaking and the breaker indices. Also, the numerical results are compared to data from physical experiments and the numerical results exhibit reasonable agreement with experimental data.

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