Abstract

This case study reports results from field observations and numerical simulations of waves and morphological changes along a portion of Kaanapali Beach on West Maui, Hawaii, which is protected by a hard coral reef and experiences shoreline changes from season to season. The SWAN spectral wave model shows reasonable agreement with ADCP observations of wave-heights for the winter months. Simulated beach profile change over one-month time frame was able to reasonably capture the trend of beach face migration (accretion or erosion); the modeled shoreline also shows satisfactory agreement with beach survey data. This case study suggests that Delft3D is able to capture key features of sediment transport along a narrow beach protected by a fringing reef.

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