Numerical investigation of effects of artificial excavation pit on transformation and runup processes of tsunami-like wave over fringing reef

Abstract

In recent years, excavating materials from the reef flat gradually becomes the main source of sand and aggregate for the coral-lined coasts in tropical and subtropical regions, especially the low-laying atoll islands. These artificial excavation pits are bound to have significant impacts on the wave hydrodynamics over the fringing reefs. However, effects of the excavation pit on the hydrodynamic characteristics of tsunami-like wave over the fringing reef are few studied. To fill the knowledge gap of previous research, effects of artificial excavation pit on the transformation and runup processes of tsunami-like wave over the fringing reef have been systematically investigated in this study based on a high-resolution two-phase flow model. Effects of several main factors are carefully discussed. Research results indicate that the presence of excavation pit can have noticeable influences on the wave transformation and runup processes of tsunami-like wave over the fringing reef. Complex interactions between the breaking surge bore and the water body in the excavation pit can be observed. The complicated flow field in the pit can dissipate more wave energy and result in a lower maximum wave runup height. However, the local wave height near the pit in most situations can be amplified. It is hoped that the research findings can broaden the understandings on the wave hydrodynamics over the fringing reef with the artificial excavation pit.