Abstract

Low-frequency fluctuations on a reef coast are studied through a numerical model based on nonlinear conservation equations of mass and momentum. The model is used to investigate the long wave generation and propagation phenomena under both breaking and non-breaking incident short wave groups. The effects of incident wave characteristics and reef topography on the long wave phenomena are discussed. The results show that the long wave elevations on reef coasts are substantial, which explains the large water level fluctuations observed at certain occasions.

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