Abstract
ABSTRACTThe deformation of shallow-water breaking waves is studied from the exact theory of irrotational flow. The method used here is based on the mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian technique developed by Longuet-Higgins and Cokelet. To generate the breaking waves a sufficiently large wave steepness is used as initial conditions for the computation. The deformation of unsteady waves and the resultant two types of breaker, plunging and spilling breakers, are shown for various relative depths. The velocity field of these breaking waves are also given.
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