Notes on a Visit to Western Tibet in 1926

Abstract

with each other as far as Khela, in the valley of the Kali river, our frontier against Nepal; from this place the Darma valley branches off to the north, past the lovely Panch Chulha peak, and at its head lies the Nue, or Darma pass, leading direct to Gyanima. The other, and easier, route is up the Kali valley via Garbyang to the Lipu Lek pass, within easy reach of the big market at Taklakot. On this route is encountered the famous, or rather notorious, Nirpania cliff, the worst part of which can now be turned by a detour along the Nepalese bank of the river. The valleys above named pierce the central chain of the Himalaya, and are the home of the Bhotias, a people probably of Tibetan origin, though now professing the Hindu religion. They have a monopoly of the trade between India and Western Tibet, a monopoly of which no one is likely to deprive them while communications remain in their present state. Undoubtedly the easiest of the passes is the Lipu Lek, 16,750 feet high. This can be crossed by mules and ponies eight months in the year ; but it should not be treated with contempt, for I know a Bhotia who lost his toes on it in November, three or four years ago. The Bhotias of Chaudans and Byans, the northern pattis of the Kali valley, usually cross into Tibet in July and return in October. Taklakot is about 7 miles across the border. Under orders from the Government of India, I visited Western Tibet in 1926 to investigate conditions of trade between the Tibetans and the Bhotias. The latter carry up every year grain, rice, cloth, and various kinds of haberdashery, returning with wool, borax, and salt. But for them Western Tibet would probably starve, as the high altitude of most of the plateau, and the nomadic habits of the people, render cultiva? tion impossible. Before the British expedition to Lhasa in 1904 no officers had, so far as I know, visited this part of the country on duty. But in 1905 Mr. C. A. Sherring, of the Indian Civil Service, was deputed to report on trade and to cultivate friendly relations with the officials. He de? scribed his experiences in ' Western Tibet and the British Borderland/ He was followed, in 1908 and 1911 respectively, by Messrs. Cassels and Stiffe, of the same Service, acting under similar orders. Since then a number of complaints from Bhotias concerning trade restrictions had accumulated, and it was thought desirable to have them inquired into.