Abstract
Lipids are major ingredients in cosmetics and play an essential role in cosmetics ability to improve skin, hair, nail and mucuous membranes aspect, sensory qualities and function, either by interacting with skin components, enhancing active ingredient release or by spreading and forming a protective layer on its surface. Measuring lipids efficacy to the skin is possible through a wide range of non-invasive clinical and instrumental methods. Measurements of sebum, temperature, hydration, transepidermal water loss, skin surface topography, skin firmness, elasticity, color enable to assess the lipids ability to protect the skin, hair and mucuous membrane (from pollution, cold, chemical aggression, dehydration), restore stratum corneum barrier function, improve cutaneous visco-elastic properties and surface characteristics, enhance skin or hair sensory qualities (softness, smoothness) or look (radiance, shine), nourish dry skins and mucuous membranes or help sooth sensitive ones. We explored the advantages and limits of these methods.
Highlights
Lipids are major ingredients in cosmetics and play an essential role in cosmetics ability to improve skin, hair, nail and mucuous membranes aspect, sensory qualities and function
In compliance with the European Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, claims substantiation related to the cosmetics products efficacy must comply with six common criteria established in the European Commission text No 655/2013 of 11/07/2013
Evidential support: – claims for cosmetic products, whether explicit or implicit, shall be supported by adequate and verifiable evidence regardless of the types of evidential support used to substantiate them, including where appropriate expert assessments; – evidence for claim substantiation shall take into account state of the art practices; – where studies are being used as evidence, they shall be relevant to the product and to the benefit claimed, shall follow well-designed, well-conducted methodologies and shall respect ethical considerations; – the level of evidence or substantiation shall be consistent with the type of claim being made, in particular for claims where lack of efficacy may cause a safety problem;
Summary
Lipids are major ingredients in cosmetics and play an essential role in cosmetics ability to improve skin, hair, nail and mucuous membranes aspect, sensory qualities and function. As lipids in cosmetics may be of different categories,. Measuring lipids efficacy to the skin is possible through a wide range of non-invasive clinical and instrumental methods. Measurements of sebum, temperature, hydration, transepidermal water loss, skin surface topography, skin firmness, elasticity, colour enable to assess the lipids ability to protect.
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