Abstract

Cotton fibre is mainly composed of cellulose, although non-cellulosic polysaccharides play key roles during fibre development and are still present in the harvested fibre. This study aimed at determining the fate of non-cellulosic polysaccharides during cotton textile processing. We analyzed non-cellulosic cotton fibre polysaccharides during different steps of cotton textile processing using GC-MS, HPLC and comprehensive microarray polymer profiling to obtain monosaccharide and polysaccharide amounts and linkage compositions. Additionally, in situ detection was used to obtain information on polysaccharide localization and accessibility. We show that pectic and hemicellulosic polysaccharide levels decrease during cotton textile processing and that some processing steps have more impact than others. Pectins and arabinose-containing polysaccharides are strongly impacted by the chemical treatments, with most being removed during bleaching and scouring. However, some forms of pectin are more resistant than others. Xylan and xyloglucan are affected in later processing steps and to a lesser extent, whereas callose showed a strong resistance to the chemical processing steps. This study shows that non-cellulosic polysaccharides are differently impacted by the treatments used in cotton textile processing with some hemicelluloses and callose being resistant to these harsh treatments.

Highlights

  • IntroductionCotton fibre development goes through four, partially overlapping, phases: fibre initiation, elongation, secondary thickening, and maturation [1, 3]

  • Cotton (Gossypium sp) fibre has been widely studied as the major natural fibre used in the textile industry and as an excellent model for fibre development [1, 2].PLOS ONE | DOI:10.1371/journal.pone.0115150 December 17, 2014Impact of Textile Processing on Cotton Pectins and HemicellulosesCotton fibre development goes through four, partially overlapping, phases: fibre initiation, elongation, secondary thickening, and maturation [1, 3]

  • The levels of glucose and other neutral sugar levels do increase during these processing steps, with a significant increase being observed between the yarn and raw fabric

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Summary

Introduction

Cotton fibre development goes through four, partially overlapping, phases: fibre initiation, elongation, secondary thickening, and maturation [1, 3]. During these different stages, the various polysaccharides that will constitute the mature fibre are produced. The fibre primary cell wall is formed during the fibre initiation and elongation stages and is mainly composed of pectins, cellulose, and hemicelluloses [1, 4,5,6]. The non-cellulosic polysaccharides have been widely studied during fibre initiation [7,8,9] or elongation [4, 5, 10, 11] to understand their roles in the fibre construction and development. When cotton fibre is at 15 to 19 dpa, secondary cell wall synthesis starts resulting in the deposition of large amounts of cellulose to reach around 95% of total mass in the mature cotton fibre [12]

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