No. 3 Vol. 42, No. 2, pp. 94–101, 2008 Effect of Birch (Betula platyphylla Sukatchev var. japonica Hara) sap on cultured human epidermal keratinocyte differentiation

Abstract

The beauty of ideal skin texture is closely associated with dermal moisture factors. The key factors of skin moisture are NMF (natural moisturizing factor) and skin normal barrier function. The former keeps dermal surface moisture, and the later protects from excess water loss. So we have searched for the ingredient that improves these factors. Birch sap has been widely used as an effective drink for anti‐fatigue and anti‐stress. However, the effect of birch sap on skin as a cosmetic agent has not been known entirely. In this study, we investigated the effects of birch (Betula platyphylla Sukatchev var. japonica Hara) sap on human skin. Birch sap induced epidermal keratinocyte differentiation properties in vitro. We assessed two epidermal differentiation agents. Filaggrin is a precursor protein of NMF, and involucrin is one of the precursor proteins of the cornified cell envelope (CE), which is related to normal barrier function. We have evaluated the production of these proteins where birch sap was applied to human normal keratinocytes. Birch sap not only increased mRNA expression of filaggrin and involucrin, but also accelerated these proteins production. Otherwise, birch sap did not have any influence for IL‐6 production, which is related to inflammatory and aberrant keratinocyte proliferation. The results of induced differentiation properties on birch sap‐treated keratinocytes are very similar to the differentiation induced by calcium in vitro. This similarity suggested that birch sap has a differentiation inducible property on in vitro cultured keratinocytes. Our study suggested that birch sap is able to control both moisturizing‐ and barrier‐related factor production. From these effects, birch sap provides appropriate epidermal functions and skin homeostasis, and revealed itself as a very useful ingredient in the cosmetic field.