Abstract

Ecological retanning agent is an effective way to solve the pollution source of leather manufacturing industry. In this study, the gelatin from chrome-containing leather shavings in the leather industry was used to realize sustainable leather post-tanning. The gelatin hydrolysate (GH) coordinated with Zr4+ or Al3+ to prepare eco-friendly retanning agents GH-Zr and GH-Al. The successful coordination between GH and metal ions was characterized by FTIR and XPS. The retanning agents were characterized by FTIR curve-fitting and circular dichroism spectroscopy. The results showed that the conformation of the secondary structure of the polypeptide became ordered and stable after coordinating with the metal ions. The particle size and weight average molecular weight of the retanning agents were ~1700 nm and ~2100, respectively, measured by nanoparticle size analyzer and gel permeation chromatography (GPC). The retanning agents were applied to retanning of chrome tanned leather and glutaraldehyde tanned leather. The abundant free amino from retanning agents can consume the free formaldehyde. Meanwhile, retanning agents can effectively improve the multiple binding sites, resulting in favorable thickening rate (>110 %) and excellent dye and fatliquor absorption rate with ~99.91 % and ~93.18 %. Thus, this strategy can provide a viable choice for solid leather waste and sustainable development of the leather industry.

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