Abstract
Phase-averaged parametric wave models have been widely used to predict nearshore wave height transformation. The performance of parametric models depends significantly on the wave breaker index (), which controls the amount of breaking energy dissipation. Previous parameterizations improved the model predictability by considering the breaker index as a tunable coefficient, while made less effort to the physical interpretation for the proposed formulas. Indeed, inconsistency from the physical perspectives might exist. Therefore, the parameterization of still requires further investigation by considering the comprehensive influences of the offshore wave parameters and the local water depth, as well as the possible relationships with the breaker type and the surf zone state.
Highlights
Phase-averaged parametric wave models have been widely used to predict nearshore wave height transformation
The γ data for Db >15 N/ms is in good agreement with the formula (γ = 0.76kh + 0.29) of Ruessink et al (2003), which describes a positive correlation between γ and kh
This relationship no longer applies if all γ data is considered
Summary
Phase-averaged parametric wave models have been widely used to predict nearshore wave height transformation. The parameterization of γ still requires further investigation by considering the comprehensive influences of the offshore wave parameters and the local water depth, as well as the possible relationships with the breaker type and the surf zone state. The calibration of γ under wave conditions with smaller offshore wave steepness is likely not included in Ruessink et al (2003).
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