NEW AND MODIFIED ELEMENTS IN THE MORDOVIAN COSTUME OF THE XIII–XV CENTURIES

Abstract

In any ethnic group a costume is part of the ethnic characteristics of the people. Along with other elements, it distinguishes one nation from its neighbors.
 
 The purpose of the study is to analyze accentuating a decorative complex and clarify the dating of its existence.
 
 Materials and methods. The main source base of the research is archaeological sources both published in various periodicals and collected in original reports stored in the Field Research Department of the Archaeology Institute under the Russian Academy of Sciences. The research is based on the principle of historicism, the typological archaeological one and the method of ethnic correspondence.
 
 Study results. The Mordovian costume preserves almost all the elements of the decorative complex that existed in the previous period. The only exception is made by the temporal pendants with a weight, which remain an ethnic marker of the Mordovian people since the moment of the Mordovian culture’s emergence until the XIII century. The rest of the complex, although not as bright as in the previous time, remains almost the same in terms of the set of decorations. Only their forms change along with the change of the entire cultural image, which is chronological in nature. Breast ornaments and hand ornaments are preserved. Temporal pendants give way to temporal rings.
 
 Conclusions. The opinion that the Mordovian culture of the XIII–XV centuries is declining is not justified. During this period, the objective process of its development continues, which in the second half of the 30s of the XIII century due to historical events received a new vector. The highest prosperity of the Mordovian culture of the time under consideration dates back to the middle of the XIV century, which corresponds both to the ecological and political situation in Eastern Europe. The XIII–XV centuries are a new stage in the development of the Mordovian culture, which can be seen on the example of the metal decor. The chronology of the decorative complex in the Mordovian costume of the Golden Horde period needs clarification, which is partially done in this article.