Nearshore Wave Forecast for Xiamen, China

Abstract

ABSTRACT Wang, Z.; Wu, K.; Gao, S., and Li, Q., 2017. Nearshore wave forecast for Xiamen, China. In: Zhi, Y. and Guido Aldana, P.A. (eds.), Sustainability of Water Resources and the Development of Coastal Environments: Select Proceedings from the 2016 International Conference on Water Resource and Environment (WRE2016). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 80, pp. 48–54. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The paper aimed to develop a wave forecasting system for the nearshore areas of Xiamen, with practical implications in operational wave forecasting. The SWAN model, a state-of-art third-generation wave model used for the simulation of nearshore waves, was powered by the WRF (weather research and forecasting) model with spatial resolution up to 180 m. The SWAN model output was comprised of significant wave height, mean wave period, and mean wave direction in forecast modes of 24 h, 48 h, and 72 h. Extensive validation exercises were performed to evaluate the model's performance under diffe...