Nationality, Authenticity and Food: A Revisiting on the History of Chop Suey

Abstract

In the early twentieth century, the authenticity of chop suey was challenged by mainstream American media, as journalists could not find evidence of the dish in China. This caused a decline in the availability of chop suey in the American restaurants. However, chop suey was simultaneously recognized as a Chinese food by educated Chinese elites such as Liang Qichao, who raised no concerns about its authenticity. This article examines the difference between Chinese elites and the American media and discusses the relationships among food, authenticity and nationality. It argues that despite the different perceptions of Chinese elites and the American media, they both used a single standard to determine whether chop suey was “Chinese food” and failed to realize the close relationship between the Chinese community and American society. Both were influenced by a common perception of Chinese communities as isolated within American society and separate from other groups and close contact with China.