Abstract

The Icelandic sweater is presented and received as being traditional—even ancient—authentically Icelandic and hand made by Icelandic women from the wool of Icelandic sheep. Even so, the sweater type, the so-called ‘Icelandic sweater’ in English, only dates back to the mid-20th century and is not necessarily made in Iceland nor from indigenous wool. Nevertheless, the sweater is a successful invention of a tradition (Hobsbawm & Ranger, 1983), popular among Icelanders and tourists alike since its introduction in the mid-20th century. It has gained ground as a national symbol, particularly in times of crisis for example in the reconstruction of values in the aftermath of the Icelandic bank collapse of 2008. I traced the development of the discourse about wool and the origins of the Icelandic sweater by looking at publications of the Icelandic National Craft Association, current design discourse in Iceland and its effect on the development of the wool industry. I then tied these factors to notions of tradition, authenticity, national culture, image and souvenirs.

Highlights

  • This article traces the development of the Icelandic sweater, including its production, material and style

  • The Icelandic sweater is based on foreign models, but Icelandic designers were instrumental in making it popular by designing patterns that were marketed by the wool industry

  • While proponents of crafts are preoccupied with the qualities of wool as material and with which techniques best capture these qualities, artists and designers concern themselves with articles, such as the Icelandic sweater, their symbolism and meaning and the material from which they are made

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Summary

Introduction

This article traces the development of the Icelandic sweater, including its production, material and style. The material for the iconic Icelandic sweater is not the product of traditional handicrafts but is the offspring of the industrialisation of wool work. Wool production and knitting in Iceland Textile historian Gudjonsson estimates that knitting was introduced to Iceland in the 16th century, and she suggests that the technique soon became an important aspect of textile tradition.

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