Abstract

The developing field of bio-nanotechnology aims to advance colloidal research via the introduction of multifunctional nanoparticles to augment the dermal effectiveness of active substances. Self-emulsifying drug delivery systems (SEDDS)—isotropic mixtures of oils, surfactants, solvents and co-solvents or surfactants—are attracting interest in the cosmeceutical field. As part of this study, SEDDS systems containing vitamin C or vitamin E and curcumin were developed, whereby the bioavailability of the active compounds increased by enhancing their permeability to deeper layers of the skin. A composition consisting of 50% surfactin from Bacillus subtilis, 30% Transcutol and 20% oil phase was designed to encapsulate the active substances, i.e., vitamin C or vitamin E and curcumin, contained in the oil phase. The developed carriers were characterized by average particle sizes of 69–183 nm. The formulations with the vitamins were found to be physically and chemically stable for 6 months. Transdermal tests were carried out, showing that the carriers enable the transport of active substances deep into the skin, stopping at the dermis border. The formulations with vitamin C and vitamin E reduced the discoloration, the vascular lesions, and the depth of the wrinkles on the tested skin, which can be useful in cosmetics in the treatment of problem skin, including capillary and sensitive skin.

Highlights

  • Nanotechnology is an expanding strategy that has a significant impact on the development of an efficient delivery system for active substances exhibiting low bioavailability

  • Most cosmetic preparations do not penetrate through the stratum corneum to deeper layers of the skin

  • It is assumed that carriers of active substances should be composed of biodegradable components that undergo enzymatic degradation to the compounds naturally occurring in the human body

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Summary

Introduction

Nanotechnology is an expanding strategy that has a significant impact on the development of an efficient delivery system for active substances exhibiting low bioavailability. One of the most promising developments in topical transport is particle size reduction. Such developments, including drug and active substance encapsulation, have attracted much interest, in part due to the advancements in biomaterials enabling the preparation of delivery systems with novel functional properties (size, charge, interfacial functionalization, etc.) through the structural design of nanoemulsions [1]. SEDDS are isotropic mixtures of oils, surfactants, solvents and co-solvents or surfactants, forming droplets from 100 to 300 nm in size They can increase the bioavailability of poorly soluble and permeable compounds, whereby the dissolution step is avoided and permeability through biological membranes is increased owing to the presence of lipids and surfactants [3,4]. Most of the commercialized SEDDS are pharmaceutical preparations, e.g., Sandimmune®, Sandimmun Neoral® (cyclosporin A), Norvir® (ritonavir) and Fortovase® (saquinavir)

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