Abstract

The textile fragments of the funeral clothes found in the 17th and 18th century crypts were subjected to spectroscopic, spectrometric, and microbial investigation. The next-generation sequencing enabled DNA identification of microorganisms at the genus and in five cases to the species level. The soft hydrofluoric acid extraction method was optimized to isolate different classes of dyes from samples that had direct contact with human remains. High-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode matrix and tandem mass spectrometry detectors with electrospray ionization (HPLC-DAD-ESI-MS/MS) enabled the detection and identification of 34 colourants that are present in historical textiles. Some of them are thus far unknown and uncommon dyes. Indigo, madder, cochineal, turmeric, tannin-producing plant, and young fustic were identified as sources of dyes in textiles. Scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray detector (SEM-EDS) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) were used to identify and characterize fibres and mordants in funeral gowns. Of the 23 textile samples tested, 19 were silk while the remaining four were recognized as wool. The presence of iron, aluminium, sodium, and calcium suggests that they were used as mordants. Traces of copper, silica, and magnesium might originate from the contaminants. The large amount of silver indicated the presence of metal wire in one of the dyed silk textiles. SEM images showed that textile fibres were highly degraded.

Highlights

  • Energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy combined with scanning electron microscopy (SEM-energy dispersive spectroscopy (EDS)), particle induced X-ray emission (PIXE), laser ablation ICP-MS, and laser induced breakdown spectroscopy (LIBS) give information on the mordanting ions and reveals details of ancient dyeing techniques [15,16,17,18,19]

  • The contents of nine crypts were opened and inventoried in the church, while the remaining ones were examined by non-invasive methods

  • The remains rested in richly decorated coffins, painted or upholstered in silk and woollen fabrics

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Summary

Introduction

The study of archaeological textiles is a rapidly developing field of research, providing important knowledge about ancient dyeing techniques. Historical samples are characterized by the use of various analytical methods and procedures to obtain data on their organic and inorganic components. Improved methods of extracting dyes from textiles have allowed the identification of specific dye sources in some cases [1,2,3]. The identification of dyes in historical objects requires sensitive and selective analytical methods because the amount of available materials is usually limited. Highperformance liquid chromatography with spectrophotometric and mass-spectrometric detectors (HPLC-UV-Vis-MS) is one of the useful tools for the analysis of textile samples containing dyes [4,5,6,7,8,9]. Energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy combined with scanning electron microscopy (SEM-EDS), particle induced X-ray emission (PIXE), laser ablation ICP-MS, and laser induced breakdown spectroscopy (LIBS) give information on the mordanting ions and reveals details of ancient dyeing techniques [15,16,17,18,19]

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