Abstract
In this numerical study, sediment transport and bed evolution in the surf zone under plunging breakers are investigated; this is a challenging topic that involves complex hydrodynamics coupled with sediment dynamics. Here, a Eulerian–Eulerian multi-phase model for sediment transport, with the capability to capture the free surface, is used. Waves are generated using an open-source toolbox ‘waves2foam’, based on a relaxation method. The model is validated with published experimental results in three cases: (i) surf-zone hydrodynamics over a sloped-rigid bed, (ii) suspended sediment concentration over a sloped-sediment pit, and (iii) bed profile change of a sloped-mobile bed. The profiles of time-averaged velocity, concentration, sediment fluxes, and the time series of concentration are presented. The numerical results suggest that the undertow plays a key role in offshore sediment transport. The instantaneous flow fields show that the vortices under plunging breakers roll up the sediment layers originally near the bed; in such an event, the buoyancy provides a centripetal force to sediment particles. The vortices further transport the suspended sediment onshore and cause strong mixing in water column. This is marked as the underlying mechanism for significant wave-driven flux in the surf zone.
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