MULTI-SCALE INFRA-GRAVITY WAVE DYNAMICS - THE FRENCH BASQUE COAST

Volker Roeber,Florian Bellafont,Assaf Azouri,J Dylan Nestler,Jonas Pinault

doi:10.9753/icce.v36v.waves.46

Abstract

Phase-resolving numerical models are a powerful tool to identify and analyze dominant wave processes along a site of interest. We have carried out a numerical study related to infra-gravity wave dynamics along the French Basque coast. The computed scenarios are representative for the swell conditions at the site of interest and include variations in offshore wave height, direction, and water level. Several statistical methods were employed that illustrate that the irregular bathymetry is a key component for the strong variations in sea-swell and IG-wave energy. The water level is demonstrated to substantially affect the IG-wave behavior, more than the wave direction. Swash oscillations in the IG-frequency band are greater than or equal to sea-swell swash oscillations at nearly all locations along the studied shoreline.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/ELZwJCokkX0

Highlights

Coastal risk management has the primary goal to protect population and infrastructure from wavedriven hazards, and to address the changes ecosystems undergo due to human activities
The world-wide push towards sustainable shorelines and the need to built communities resilient to coastal hazards has increased the demand of accurate and comprehensive numerical solutions to gain a better understanding of the critical wave processes
Phase-resolving numerical models have become increasingly popular for computations of the wave regime near the coast. These models allow for the transformation and interaction of swell waves with each other and with the bathymetry, and include the generation and propagation of infra-gravity (IG) waves, which are known to have a major contribution to coastal flooding, damage of infrastructure, and sediment transport

Summary

Introduction

Pau & Pays de l’Adour, E2S-UPPA; Chaire HPC-Waves, volker.roeber@univ-pau.fr J. Pau & Pays de l’Adour, E2S-UPPA; Chaire HPC-Waves, jdnestler@gmail.com Jonas Pinault, Univ. Pau & Pays de l’Adour, E2S-UPPA; Chaire HPC-Waves, jonas.pinault@univ-pau.fr Assaf Azouri, University of Hawaii at Manoa, Department of Oceanography, assaf@hawaii.edu Florian Bellafont, Univ.

Results

Conclusion