Abstract
In this study a video-monitoring system was used to analyze the presence of mesoforms during a time period of five years in the urban beach of La Victoria, Cádiz, Spain. This technique allowed the generation of plan views using an improved version of ULISES software. The presence and spatiotemporal variability of the most common mesoforms, such as bars and cusps, was identified in all the plan views. Furthermore, the morphodynamic state of the beach was investigated in combination with local hydrodynamic data. The cusp systems were also studied by means of wavelet analyses and different theories on cusps formation were tested. The presence of the investigated features was related to the wave energy and its seasonal variations. The behavior of the mesoforms demonstrated the important role of a subtidal rocky outcrop in the nearshore processes. The results also show that bars and cusps as indicators of the nearshore processes are a useful tool for the macroscopic analysis of surf zone dynamics in dissipative beaches.
Highlights
Mesoscale features are common in many beaches, showing spatial scales between a few meters to kilometers and temporal scales from minutes to hours, hours to days, or even centuries to millennia [1].Among these features there are rhythmic beach cusps and bars, and rip currents often appear associated to them
The purpose of this paper is to study the spatiotemporal and spatial variability of mesoforms, purpose of this paper is to study the spatiotemporal and spatial variability of mesoforms, namelyThe cusps and bars, and nearshore processes associated with them on a mesotidal beach in southern namely cusps and bars, and nearshore processes associated with them on a mesotidal beach in
The presence of bars gradually decreased as the summer period approached, with the minimum presence occurring between June and September
Summary
Mesoscale features are common in many beaches, showing spatial scales between a few meters to kilometers and temporal scales from minutes to hours, hours to days, or even centuries to millennia [1]. Among these features there are rhythmic beach cusps and bars, and rip currents often appear associated to them. The persistence and appearance of features in certain areas can provide useful information on the processes that predominate those areas
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