Abstract
In this paper we present a process-based numerical model for the prediction of storm hydrodynamics and hydrology on gravel beaches. The model comprises an extension of an existing open-source storm-impact model for sandy coasts (XBeach), through the application of (1) a non-hydrostatic pressure correction term that allows wave-by-wave modelling of the surface elevation and depth-averaged flow, and (2) a groundwater model that allows infiltration and exfiltration through the permeable gravel bed to be simulated, and is referred to as XBeach-G. Although the model contains validated sediment transport relations for sandy environments, transport relations for gravel in the model are currently under development and unvalidated. Consequently, all simulations in this paper are carried out without morphodynamic feedback. Modelled hydrodynamics are validated using data collected during a large-scale physical model experiment and detailed in-situ field data collected at Loe Bar, Cornwall, UK, as well as remote-sensed data collected at four gravel beach locations along the UK coast during the 2012–2013 storm season. Validation results show that the model has good skill in predicting wave transformation (overall SCI 0.14–0.21), run-up levels (SCI <0.12; median error <10%) and initial wave overtopping (85–90% prediction rate at barrier crest), indicating that the model can be applied to estimate potential storm impact on gravel beaches. The inclusion of the non-hydrostatic pressure correction term and groundwater model is shown to significantly improve the prediction and evolution of overtopping events.
Highlights
Gravel beaches and barriers occur on many high-latitude, wave-dominated coasts across the world
This paper presents an extension of the XBeach numerical model to simulate hydrodynamics on gravel beaches under energetic wave conditions
The model is modified from the standard XBeach model for sandy beaches by the inclusion of (1) a non-hydrostatic pressure correction term (Smit et al, 2010) that allows wave-by-wave modelling of the surface elevation and depth-averaged flow, and (2) a groundwater model (McCall et al, 2012) that allows infiltration and exfiltration through the permeable gravel bed to be simulated, and is referred to as XBeach-G
Summary
Gravel beaches and barriers occur on many high-latitude, wave-dominated coasts across the world. Despite this practice and previous research done to describe gravel barrier response to extreme storm events in a qualitative sense (e.g., Orford, 1977), coastal managers are currently forced to rely on simple empirical models to make quantitative predictions of gravel beach storm response and associated flooding risk (e.g., Powell, 1990; Bradbury, 2000) These empirical models have been applied with some success in the UK (e.g., Cope, 2005), they are inherently limited in their application by the range of conditions and data from which they are derived (cf Bradbury et al, 2005; Obhrai et al, 2008). The model is presented as a first step towards the development of a process-based morphodynamic model for storm impacts on gravel coasts
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