Abstract
This paper concerns with a description of the variations in the disturbance depth across four open mesotidal beaches in the Cadiz littoral (SW Spain), along single tidal cycles, using rods and cores of marked beach sands inserted in the foreshore. The studied beaches show a quite wide range of morphologies, from reflective and barred dissipative to pure dissipative ones. Nevertheless, the energetic conditions of the coast remain more or less constant along its length. In this work the recorded disturbance depths have been compared with parameters like wave height, beach gradient and grain size distribution. As a conclusion, it has been obtained that the morphodynamic regime is the characteristic that better explains the spatial variation of the disturbance depth, as well as the different response of the beaches under broadly similar energetic conditions. In each case the morphodynamic situation controls the distribution and relative intensity of wave processes acting across the beach profile and, hence, the different rate of disturbance depth. The morphodynamic study of a beach permits an initial prediction of its morphological response under variable wave conditions.
Highlights
This paper concerns with a description of the variations in the disturbance depth across four open mesotidal beaches in the Cadiz littoral (SW Spain), along single tidal cycles, using rods and cores of marked beach sands inserted in the foreshore
La gráfica resultante muestra una clara tendencia al incremento de la profundidad de removilización al pasar de rompientes en derrame a rompientes de tipo voluta
Los resultados obtenidos aparecen en la figura 8, donde la playa de Rota puede clasificarse como intermedia-reflectiva, mientras las playas de La Ballena y Tres Piedras muestran una clara tendencia a las condiciones disipativas
Summary
Existen pocos estudios relativos a la profundidad de mezcla, removilización y sus cambios en función del oleaje. Sunamura y Kraus (1985) desarrollaron un modelo basado en las variaciones de la fuerza de rozamiento de los granos, obteniendo una relación teórica entre la profundidad de mezcla (Z) y la altura de la ola en rompiente (Hb): Z = 0,027 Hb. La profundidad de removilización muestra valores parecidos en toda la playa, tanto en la zona de «swash-backwash» como en la rompiente; asimismo, observó cómo las playas de arena gruesa se ven más afectadas por el oleaje que las de arena fina. Se pretende con ello obtener un patrón general de comportamiento a partir de la relación empírica entre profundidad de removilización, altura de ola en rompiente y pendiente intermareal de las playas, que pueda ser aplicable a cualquier ámbito costero
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