MODELING OF WIND-WAVE GROWTH IN STRONG WIND CONDITIONS BASED ON PHASE-RESOLVING WAVE MODEL

Abstract

Recently, coastal disaste have occurred by typhoons passing through bays, such as Typhoon Jebi in 2018 and Typhoon Hagibis in 2019 (Mori et al.(2019), Shimozono et al.(2020)). The current wave model cannot simultaneously account for the development of wind waves due to strong winds and wave deformation due to topography. This study aims to develop a phase-resolving wave model that considers the development of wind waves in shallow water under strong wind conditions. A wave development term that considers the local wave deformation is introduced into the phase-resolving wave model. XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009) a numerical model based on the nonlinear long wave equation with nonhydrostatic pressure term, is used to calculate the waves in coastal areas. The wave development term is introduced, and the wave development process is optimized based on sensitivity experiments.