Mimicry and modernity in the Middle East: fashion invisibility and young women of the Arab Gulf

Abstract

Prior consumer research has addressed the encounter between global brands and styles versus local cultures through the concepts of glocal hybridity, post-assimilationist resistance, and the de-stigmatization of local practices in the face of competition from global consumer culture. Based on fieldwork with college women in the Arab Gulf states we detect two other practices involving highly conspicuous consumption that act to create a space for identity that lies between Western modernity and Islamic conservatism. The first is layering in which outer garments act as a “cloak of invisibility” for luxurious Western wear beneath. The second is “mimetic excess” that responds to envy of Western consumption, provokes local envy, and participates in “modern” consumption at the same time that it encompasses these practices within a covering of religious and national virtue. The key contribution of this study consists of identifying these new strategies of reconciling two opposing hegemonic fashion discourses to which privileged Muslim minorities in their own wealthy countries are subjected.