Mil fÓrmulas de cocina “La Negra”: Labour, Gender, And Race In Argentina’s Meat Industry, 1917–1940

Abstract

This essay explores the interplay of race, gender, and class in early twentieth-century Argentina when major forces such as immigration, urbanisation, and modernisation reshaped women’s work both in the factory and the home. My analysis focuses on Mil fórmulas de cocina “La Negra”, a cookbook published between 1917 and 1940 by the meatpacking plant Compañía Sansinena de Carnes Congeladas, which features photographs from the factory and its workers in between the recipes. First, I refer to the history of the meatpacking plant and its modernisation campaign. I compare the case of “La Negra” to other stereotypes of Blackness in branding in order to explore the relationship between the company’s industrial project and the figure of the Afro-Argentine woman. Second, I examine the cookbook’s texts and images by tracing a parallel between the meatpacking plant’s female workers and the middle-class homemakers who buy and read these cookbooks. In so doing, I argue that La Negra’s cookbooks were a crucial instrument in reinforcing an ideology of domesticity that linked national progress to whiteness and middle-class identity.