Abstract
“Vegan” and “sustainable” characteristics are strong claim trends behind the development of innovative skincare, fragrances, and makeup products. This created a need in the market for compliant ingredients. To date, there have been no records evidencing the use of the microalgae Neochloris oleoabundans (NA) in dermocosmetics. Therefore, we studied the applicability of such a natural compound in this context. NA was cultivated, and the scavenging activity (SA) of the NA extracts was evaluated. The highest SA was from the aqueous extract (54.8% ± 2.1%), being higher than that of the positive control. Two hydrogels were prepared with 1.0% ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer: (1) control gel; and (2) gel with a 1.0% NA aqueous extract. In vivo experiments were performed in healthy male and female volunteers with skin phototypes of II–IV. The stratum corneum (SC) hydration and the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured in the forearm of participants to determine their biocompatibility. This parameter was determined by skin bioengineering measurements, confirming that SC hydration and TEWL were not affected by the samples. The laser Doppler measurements results showed a delayed erythema onset in the sites, where the NA hydrogel was applied. The results confirmed the biocompatibility and the anti-inflammatory activity of an innovative ingredient derived from microalgae suitable for a natural and vegan lifestyle.
Highlights
Introduction iationsOne of the most promising future developments of dermocosmetics is the sustainable exploration of marine resources
A stable formulation according to Table 1 was developed with the N. oleoabundans aqueous extract
Our results showed that stratum corneum (SC) hydration was maintained in all the participants after the application of both the control sample and the gel containing N. oleoabundans (Figure 2b)
Summary
Introduction iationsOne of the most promising future developments of dermocosmetics is the sustainable exploration of marine resources. Microalgal-derived compounds have gained more attention as cosmetic ingredients due to their pigments or polysaccharides, among other interesting compounds [1,2]. Daily life to induce the choice of determined trademarks or novel actives [3] and, even more recently, the increase of the appeal for vegan and sustainable ingredients in the cosmetic market. The lifestyle called veganism, based on the absence of the use of animal-derived products in daily life, is becoming more prevalent and has created a need in the market for cosmetic products that are vegan-compliant. The latest report predicts the global vegan cosmetics market will go above $21 billion by 2027 [4]. This angle seems to provide a further
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