Abstract
Although the measurement of waves with pressure transducers has been practised since around 1947, there still remains a considerable difference in findings on the adequacy of linear wave theory to compensate the pressure records. Measurements of surface elevation in gravity waves are compared with corresponding estimates from simultaneous subsurface pressure measurements. A review of previous work precedes a description of laboratory tests in a 103-m-long wave flume at Canada's National Water Research Institute. Pressure transducers and surface-piercing capacitance wave probes are used to collect data in water depths of 0.9 and 1.2 m with monochromatic and irregular waves. Results indicate that linear theory is adequate to compensate pressure records to give surface wave heights to within five percent. Reasons for greater discrepancies in previous studies are discussed.
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