Measurements of wave-variance and velocity spectra in breaking waves

Abstract

Displacements of mechanical waves superposed onto wind waves were measured with a laser displacement gauge in a wind-wave tank. The effects of wave breaking, especially the spilling breaking type, on the wave-variance spectra are investigated. In the absence of wave breaking, the quasi-equilibrium spectrum consists of an f−7/3 subrange in the capillary regime, and its spectral density increases with increasing wind speed. When intense spilling breaking occurs, the water surface is saturated with small-scale features that cause not only an increase in the spectral density but also a reduction in the slope of the spectrum at high frequencies. Velocity components under the water surface were measured with a laser Doppler velocimeter. The energy spectra of the vertical and longitudinal velocity components in breaking waves are practically identical in the frequency range near the dominant wave frequency. At higher frequencies, the spectra generally follow Kolmogorov's −5/3 law. In the intermediate frequency range, we observed a higher spectral density for the vertical velocity component than for its longitudinal counterpart. These results suggest that turbulence energy is transferred from the vertical component to the longitudinal component in breaking waves. The acceleration of the water motion becomes as large as gravitational acceleration when intense wave breaking takes place. The flow field in breaking waves is highly dissipative.