Measurement and modelling of tropical cyclone waves in the Great Barrier Reef

Abstract

Recorded wave data from four wave measuring instruments located at various points within a section of the Great Barrier Reef during the passage of a tropical cyclone are presented. A spectral wave prediction model is used as an aid to the interpretation of the data. The tropical cyclone generated significant wave heights of approximately 10 m seaward of the reef complex. The many scattered reefs, however, act to reduce this value to approximately 6 m landward of the reef complex. Individual reefs appear to act as complete barriers to waves at typical oceanic periods, even at high tide. In a scattered reef complex such as the Great Barrier Reff, wave energy can penetrate the inter-reef gaps. Although such inter-reef gaps may appear large in comparison to the sizes of individual reefs, wave attenuation is still significant.