Abstract
Marine ingredients are a source of new chemical entities with biological action, which is the reason why they have gained relevance in the cosmetic industry. The facial care category is the most relevant in this industry, and within it, the sensitive skin segment occupies a prominent position. This work analyzed the use of marine ingredients in 88 facial cosmetics for sensitive skin from multinational brands, as well as their composition and the scientific evidence that supports their efficacy. Marine ingredients were used in 27% of the cosmetic products for sensitive skin and included the species Laminaria ochroleuca, Ascophyllum nodosum (brown macroalgae), Asparagopsis armata (red macroalgae), and Chlorella vulgaris (microalgae). Carotenoids, polysaccharides, and lipids are the chemical classes highlighted in these preparations. Two ingredients, namely the Ascophyllum nodosum extract and Asparagopsis armata extracts, present clinical evidence supporting their use for sensitive skin. Overall, marine ingredients used in cosmetics for sensitive skin are proposed to reduce skin inflammation and improve the barrier function. Marine-derived preparations constitute promising active ingredients for sensitive skin cosmetic products. Their in-depth study, focusing on the extracted metabolites, randomized placebo-controlled studies including volunteers with sensitive skin, and the use of extraction methods that are more profitable may provide a great opportunity for the cosmetic industry.
Highlights
The largely unexplored marine environment harbors unique biodiversity and represents the vastest resource for the discovery of novel chemical entities with novel modes of action that cover a biologically relevant chemical space
The unique diversity of bioactive compounds contained in algae, such as vitamins, minerals, amino acids, sugars, lipids, and other biologically active compounds, is translated into numerous attractive properties for various industries [8], including the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries, as evidenced by the appearance in the market of various cosmetic products derived from these compounds [9]
Reduced tingling sensations, improved resiliency, immediate relief, and skin comfort were reported by 58%, 59%, 70%, and 71% of the volunteers, respectively. These results reveal a potential application of this ingredient for sensitive skin, it is not possible to conclude that Ascophyllum nodosum can be useful for this purpose as the tested ingredient contains the algae Asparagopsis armata
Summary
The largely unexplored marine environment harbors unique biodiversity and represents the vastest resource for the discovery of novel chemical entities with novel modes of action that cover a biologically relevant chemical space. Cosmetic products are stable substances or substance mixtures intended to clean, protect, perfume, and/or change the appearance of the external parts of the human body, teeth, and mucous membranes of the oral cavity, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors [10]. They result from a formulation of raw materials which are categorized as active ingredients, excipients, and additives [11]. Sensitive skin is a condition characterized by multiple symptoms such as tightness, stinging, burning, or pruritus, which affects about 71% of the general adult population, being more frequent in the facial area [14,15,16]
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